Today, I’d like to introduce you to azelaic acid—a relatively niche yet highly effective active ingredient for treating acne and brightening the skin!

When it comes to azelaic acid, I’m sure many ladies on the front line of the ‘battle against spots’ have heard of its track record. It combines both spot-fighting and skin-brightening benefits, which makes it very appealing to those who want to tackle spots whilst also brightening their complexion.

Azelaic acid tackles spots and brightens the complexion; the ‘4+1’ combination offers a comprehensive approach to ‘fighting spots’. Let me explain this in detail below!

What is azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid is a saturated dicarboxylic acid containing nine carbon atoms. Its INCI name is AZELAIC ACID, and it is commonly found in grains such as rye, barley and wheat.

Although azelaic acid is an acid, it is gentler and less irritating than many other acids, making it ideal for those with mild to moderate acne, rosacea, acne scars, dull skin tone and very oily skin!

Azelaic acid occurs naturally in the environment. On the surface of our skin, there is a yeast called Malassezia furfur, which breaks down oleic acid into azelaic acid. Consequently, our skin’s outermost layer naturally contains small amounts of azelaic acid.

A single image to understand the development of spots and acne

As shown in the image, we can see that the formation of spots, blackheads and even acne hinges primarily on the following key factors:

1. Excessive sebum secretion

2. Hyperkeratinisation of the hair follicles, leading to further blockages

3. Massive proliferation and infection by Propionibacterium acnes

4. Inflammation of the hair follicle, resulting in red, swollen spots

The mechanism by which azelaic acid combats spots happens to address all four of these key points, making it a truly comprehensive ‘spot-fighting’ solution. What’s more, it also offers skin-brightening benefits and helps fade post-acne marks – what could be better!

Let’s take a closer look at how it works!

Azelaic Acid 4+1 Combo

Acne-fighting mechanism + skin-brightening mechanism

■ Four mechanisms for combating acne

① Oil control: Inhibits sebum secretion from the sebaceous glands

Among the androgens present in the skin, DHT (dihydrotestosterone) in particular can stimulate sebaceous gland activity, which is one of the causes of acne. whilst 5α-reductase in the sebaceous glands is a key enzyme in the metabolism of skin androgens; it converts T (testosterone) into DHT. Azelaic acid exerts a competitive inhibitory effect on 5α-reductase, thereby reducing sebum secretion from the sebaceous glands.

② Softening and dissolving keratin, unblocking pores

Azelaic acid is a weak acid that effectively dissolves keratin. It can improve and control excessive keratinisation of the hair follicles, alleviating blockages at the openings of the sebaceous glands within the follicles. At the same time, it can partially dissolve comedones, thereby reducing their formation.

③ Inhibits bacterial growth

Azelaic acid reduces and regulates the bacterial flora on the skin surface, within hair follicles and in the sebaceous glands. In particular, it exerts a strong inhibitory effect on two common bacteria that cause infections on the skin surface—Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis—and can effectively improve skin conditions such as acne vulgaris, rosacea and acne rosacea.

④ Alleviating inflammation

Azelaic acid reduces the expression of kallikrein 5 (KLK5) and antimicrobial peptides, whilst also inhibiting UV-induced cytokine release. This suppresses the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, thereby improving and alleviating inflammatory skin lesions such as spots and acne, and reducing symptoms such as redness and swelling associated with acne.

■ One mechanism of skin brightening

Skin Brightening, Fading Dark Spots and Acne Scars

Azelaic acid inhibits melanin production and typically acts selectively on abnormal melanocytes whilst having minimal effect on normal melanocytes. It disrupts the mitochondrial respiratory chain in melanocytes, inhibits cellular DNA synthesis and hinders the proliferation of abnormal melanocytes. As a skin-brightening agent, it is effective in treating melanin-induced scars and dark spots.

In summary, azelaic acid comprehensively addresses the four key factors in the formation of spots and acne: oil control, softening and dissolving dead skin cells, antibacterial ation and anti-inflammatory effects, whilst also offering the added benefit of skin brightening and spot reduction.

This ‘4+1’ combo provides a comprehensive ‘anti-spot’ solution, effectively targeting acne-prone skin, combination/oily skin and skin affected by post-acne hyperpigmentation!

Azelaic acid is brilliant for treating spots and brightening the complexion. If you’re interested in this product, do get in touch with us straight away!