Phospholipids are phosphorous-containing lipids and a key component of cell membranes. Phospholipid molecules arrange themselves into a bilayer, forming a selective and protective barrier. As phospholipids are an essential component of cell membranes, they possess excellent skin affinity and biocompatibility.

 

In nature, phospholipids are widely found in animals, plants and microorganisms, and are present in virtually all living cells. Examples include animal-derived sources such as egg yolk and milk, and plant-derived sources such as soya and sunflowers. Among these, soya is a key source offering the best value for money in terms of phospholipids.

In recent years, the trend of ‘embracing nature and returning to the natural world’ has become a defining feature of the skincare industry. Various natural substances, such as plant and animal extracts and traditional Chinese herbal medicines, are increasingly being incorporated into skincare products. Skincare products labelled as ‘natural’, ‘semi-natural’ or ‘all-natural’ have become a global phenomenon, gaining ever greater recognition and popularity.

 

Due to their natural origins, their natural occurrence and their unique cell-membrane-like properties, phospholipids have attracted considerable attention from both consumers and industry professionals in the context of skincare.

 

In recent years, ‘embracing natural ingredients and returning to nature’ has been a major trend in the development of skincare products. Various natural substances, such as plant and animal extracts and traditional Chinese herbal medicines, are increasingly being incorporated into skincare formulations, whilst ‘natural’, ‘semi-natural’ and ‘purely natural’ skincare products have taken the world by storm, gaining ever greater recognition and popularity.

 

Due to their natural sources, natural occurrence and unique cell-membrane-like properties, phospholipids have attracted considerable attention from both consumers and industry professionals in the field of skincare.

Phospholipids are polar lipids containing phosphorus, whilst lecithin is a complex of phospholipids and fats, with a minimum phospholipid content of 60 per cent. Phospholipids possess both lipophilic and hydrophilic groups; phosphatidylcholine (PC) is commonly used in cosmetics.

The Efficacy and Characteristics of Phospholipids in Skincare Products

 

Phospholipids are utilised in skincare products partly for their surface-active, natural and colloidal properties, and partly because they are intrinsic components of skin cells, playing a vital role in cellular metabolism and the regulation of cell membrane permeability.

 

They exhibit a high affinity for the stratum corneum, helping to repair the damaged skin barrier whilst forming a continuous film on the skin’s surface to protect it from irritation and damage.

Phospholipids possess strong hydrating capabilities; a single phospholipid molecule can bind 23 water molecules, enhancing the skin’s ability to retain moisture both on the surface and in deeper layers. They soothe and calm the skin, playing a vital role in maintaining cellular water balance and regulating cellular metabolism.

 

The Advantages of Phospholipids as Natural Emulsifiers

 

Phospholipids have an amphiphilic structure, which gives them emulsifying power, making them natural emulsifiers for oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions; Their layered emulsifying structure resembles that of human skin, offering high biocompatibility and tolerability.

 

The unique biomimetic layered structure of phospholipids prevents oil droplets from aggregating, thereby contributing to the stability of emulsions; furthermore, this distinctive structure imparts a unique ‘phospholipid skin feel’—smooth without stickiness, and with excellent skin adherence.

 

At the same time, the continuous film formed by phospholipids provides excellent, long-lasting moisturising properties; when combined with specialised processes, they can be used to prepare targeted delivery systems—liposomes—which promote the penetration and sustained release of active ingredients.

Nanohealth also offers a wide range of phospholipid products, including hydrogenated phospholipids (HSPC 50), hydrogenated phospholipids (Soya SPL 75H), soya phospholipids 75P, PBR Complex, phospholipid moisturising gum, and phospholipid composite emulsifiers.

 

Nanohaelth’s phospholipid products can be used to prepare liposomes, promote the dissolution of poorly soluble ingredients, aid the penetration of active ingredients, enhance their bioavailability, and reduce skin irritation caused by active ingredients, amongst other benefits.

 

When an emulsion prepared using phospholipid emulsifiers is applied to the forearm after cleansing with a 10% SLS solution, and TEWL is measured three hours later, a significant reduction in TEWL is observed, which aids in the repair and reconstruction of the skin barrier.

Recommendations for the use of phospholipid emulsifiers

 

1. There is no need to consider HLB; emulsification and stabilisation are achieved through the specific structure of the phospholipids;

2. High emulsification efficiency: 1% hydrogenated lecithin can emulsify 10% oil;

3. As phospholipids are esters, to ensure their stability, it is recommended that the emulsification temperature does not exceed 80°C, and prolonged exposure to high temperatures should be avoided;

4. 50H and 75H can be used as primary or auxiliary emulsifiers to enhance skin feel. Suitable for use in toners or serums, a concentration of just 0.1% yields noticeable improvements in skin feel, with significantly enhanced softness and skin adherence, whilst appropriately reducing stickiness;

5. Composite phospholipid emulsifiers can be used as primary emulsifiers or in combination with other emulsifiers as auxiliaries. They impart a smooth, easily spreadable texture and provide a rich, luxurious feel;

6. PBR Complex and phospholipid moisturising sugar gel possess good water solubility, offering moisturising and restorative benefits whilst enhancing the product’s smoothness and skin-adhering properties and reducing stickiness;

7. The addition of chelating agents and antioxidants to the formulation helps to stabilise the phospholipids.